In the S/S runway white is overwhelming; but now the darkness comes. Fashion is entering a dark age. You will never feel weak when you are in black. An accent of shiny gold or bloody red simply makes you stronger. Yes, she’s a leader, she’s killer. The gothic look this season is nothing similar to that in past decade’s Lolita bloom. The crucifixes covered woman is not eroticized but horrifying. She is not a victim but a heroine in this fashion thriller film.
Women in western society suffered from corsets and crinolines for a long time before they are liberated to the more comfortable clothing in these days. For this season, some designers are advocating the coming back of small waist/ big bust female body shape. For more exaggerating there is Marc Jacobs, for more understated there is Stella McCartney. Adding to that the down-scaled corsets are now belting the women’s waist. The large corset belt accentuates the waist and make it look smaller visually.
Androgyny appears to be one of the long-term trends for the 21st century. Once again that we cannot deny for this season, just womenswear are looking far too close to menswear. They are wearing men’s suits and sweaters and put on military clothing. This is how woMEN look.
If Little Black Dress is a must in every girl’s wardrobe, it has to be redefined. Don’t play it too safe. Don’t be afraid of being too tempting. Because under the dark sentiment of the season, you becomes a femme fatale. From bare-shoulder Versace to long-sleeved Pucci; putting on a Leather Black Dress exudes a killing confidence and seduction.
Why do we show all when we can choose to show almost all? This season is for the one who is fearless, even though it mean wearing see-through in cold winter. Adorning the winter see-through is lacy flowery pattern. It confines the sexiness behind those shadows and let the flowers bloom inside darkness.
Decorating the houses extravagantly is always a sign of aristocracy. But why just put on the wall when wearing it shows more? Continued with style of heavily embroidered clothes in menswear runway, Dolce & Gabbana’s metallic gold-laden wear is the most lavish example of this trend. Also in the Dolce & Gabbana runway, you can see the duo drags the ceiling fresco onto a black dress. The embroideries or embossed pattern in Isabel Marant, Bottega Veneta and Stella McCartney evokes a grandeur experience in royalty chamber. Heavily “decorated” clothes is the new interior design.
Trend guru Li Edelkoort once said bird is the next trend. And here it is. In the S/S we see bird pattern, and now it’s bird fur. First there is peacock-like ultra-bright coloured fur. And then more literal there is feather fur like that in Gucci and Ralph Lauren. Gareth Pugh’s fur inspired cape is like an eagle at rest. But the most interesting one comes from Alexander McQueen. The fluffy cocoon fur in soft colour resembles a fragile and delightful baby bird.
Images: vogue.co.uk, style.com